Thursday, May 14, 2015
jacquemus wants to play
Everyone is talking about Jacquemus. From Vogue to Style.com to SSENSE, which just released a freshly minted interview discussing his obsession with a large body of water containing noticeable traces of natural salt.
I first heard about Simon Porte Jacquemus a few years back. Fashion people were praising him as an up-and-coming designer. I don't recall where I read that interview and I wasn't too interested then, but I do recall being obsessed with the French beauty that is Jacquemus. His playful smile, his lithe yet toned physique and that aggressive facial hair that you love to hate.
Like his Instagram account, his clothes tell a vision, a story. For spring 2015, it's children's playground clothes for adults. It's joyful, it's fun and it doesn't take itself seriously. But it is quintessentially the stripes that pull it back to the sea. "I'm obsessed with the sea, the beach, and an aesthetic very close to the ocean." Says Jacquemus.
A shift in the interview moves to the discussion of his fall 2015 collection. Full of uncertainty, dark tones and the controversial use of the nipples. His collection got a lot of praise for experimentation, but all I discovered through the face masks were a derivative of Margiela. Margiela unofficially patented that look to be the main fixture in distinguishing the Margiela house from lets say J.W. Anderson.
What's next? Jacquemus is nominated for the LVMH Young Fashion Designer award second year in a row and throws in a humble brag. Asked if he's excited, he says "No, actually, I'm focusing on my collections. It's really a plus if I win this award."
I see a lot of potential in the spring collection to be created for the male customer. This Elena Jumpsuit could be edited down to a t shirt. The leftover fabric can be turned into headbands for the sake of being eco conscious. Make these Parasol Shorts a little less high waisted and increase the seam and I'm cruising the South of France with ease.