Monday, November 14, 2016

party time with stella mccartney

Did you hear the news across the Atlantic Ocean? Menswear has a new label and it’s called Stella McCartney. Admittedly, Stella McCartney has been designing clothes under her eponymous label since 2002, providing women with garments that are not fussy and uncontrived.

McCartney debuted her spring ‘17 menswear collection on November 10 at Abbey Roads Studio in London, England. The location was a homage to her father and the inspirational men in her life. The fete brought along a roster of celebrity guests from M.I.A. to Kate Moss, who snacked on pizza with boxes emblazoned with the Stella McCartney logo.

The collection was inspired by “iconic art and subcultures across the eras to inject a new creative energy into timeless classics.” When you begin to click through the collection, the subculture inspiration is more “on the nose” than letting the garments speak for itself.

The branding has confounded me on a few levels. I was looking forward to tailored, energetic and amusement park-friendly clothes, which has all been presented to me, but the clothes are mirroring already what’s present with other menswear labels today.

I see Gosha Rubchinskiy’s rebellious nature in the models she selects and the attitude they portray. Look 6 would be completed if he had some Instagram model friends and a skateboard. Look 21 is giving me Raf Simons going to a sleepover in Orange County, California in the middle of December to talk about what actually happened in Laguna Beach between LC, Kirstin and Stephen.

The collection isn’t the strongest, considering McCartney’s accolades and favouring of men’s tailoring in her women’s collection. The collection is just giving me a neutral feeling in an over-saturated menswear pool of Neil Barrett’s and Christopher Kane’s. A few pieces in the spring collection do stand out, such as the blue shirt with the bird motif that I can wear to everyone’s engagement party. Or the the off-white jumper with a burnt-red print coasting along the sleeves. And these green trousers are more than “holiday party” friendly, they might even land you a job interview at Paper magazine.

I imagined the Stella McCartney gentlemen to be a bit more discerning, uncomplicated and a little rebellious with the debut collection, akin to her womenswear collection. This isn’t the end for McCartney, her designs will only fineness as the seasons progress and I highly believe a more cohesive brand is sure to rise finding her niche in a saturated menswear market.

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